Christian Dior by Grosse Salamander Brooch, Crystal Pavé and Black Enamel Circa 1960s–1970s

A large naturalistic salamander in warm gold-tone metal, its body set along the dorsal spine with a continuous run of pavé clear rhinestones punctuated by scattered jet-black crystals — the spotted marking rendered in stone rather than paint. The four legs are cast in deeply textured gold, each foot splayed with articulated clawed toes. The long curved tail tapers to a fine point, the pavé continuing through to the tip.

The piece is genuinely sculptural — there is weight and dimension here, not the flat silhouette of a stamped costume brooch. The naturalistic animal form was a recurring motif in mid-century French couture jewelry, running from Schiaparelli's surrealist insects through to the reptiles and fauna that appeared across Dior, Givenchy, and Balenciaga accessories in the 1960s and 1970s.

This brooch belongs to a category that serious vintage collectors actively pursue. Grosse of Germany — Dior's licensed manufacturer throughout this era — produced pieces of fine jewelry quality in construction, and figural animal brooches from this period, particularly those with strong stone work and casting detail, have become increasingly difficult to find in this condition. The legs and feet here show the level of sculptural specificity that separates a Grosse-made Dior piece from generic costume production.

Signed Grosse © on the reverse — the authentication mark of Henkel & Grosse, Dior's long-term German manufacturing partner.

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Details

Designer: Christian Dior, manufactured by Henkel & Grosse, Germany | Era: Circa 1960s–1970s | Material: Gold-tone metal, clear rhinestone pavé, black crystal accents | Form: Naturalistic salamander brooch | Closure: Safety-catch pin | Signature: Grosse © stamped on reverse | Condition: Very good vintage condition; bright pavé, strong gold tone, all stones present